Wonderful to see 'water' birds, and many fluttering butterflies...silence! bliss!
However, the water is actually green, appears blue in the photo!
The small islands in the distance seem to be 'floating'.
In contrast to the anchorage at Lakka (see last post), this is us this morning anchored all alone in the Amvrakikos gulf, (like a big inland lake) just inside past Preveza.....no neighbors, utter quietness, except for a few small fishing boats gliding by discreetly. Wonderful to see 'water' birds, and many fluttering butterflies...silence! bliss! However, the water is actually green, appears blue in the photo! The small islands in the distance seem to be 'floating'.
0 Comments
I took this pretty photo during a very quiet period of the day...Bruno counted, there were over 60/70 boats at anchor each night in this beautiful bay of Lakka, plus another 20 squashed on the town quay....we are end of September!! The charter business in the Ionian is flourishing! Still, so busy!! Fenders were absolutely necessary at anchor.....just in case!! We managed 3 nights, would have loved to stay longer, but always some drama with the boats anchoring on top of each other, winds changing or becoming stronger, as last night when we changed places ....bref, this am we headed south >>> Preveza, where we are tonight anchored inside the strange Amvrakikos Gulf, in a deserted bay, all alone....absolutely silent....what a contrast....but the water is green! Still, we cannot have everything! Bruno and I often remember, that once upon a time, during the month of April, we were the only yacht at anchor in Lakka...we remained a whole week taking full advantage of the early season. Many pleasant walks around the area, plus easy to visit the 'main' town Gaios on the local bus. Paxos, is famous for the exceptional quality of it's olive oil....apparently sold by Harrods in London. Despite the increase in tourism over the past decades, income from olives and olive oil remains important for many households on the island. The small Antipaxos, just a little further south, has only about 150 permanent residents mainly occupied with viticulture, producing a high quality wine. Both these low green islands have a unique natural beauty, surrounded by crystal clear turquoise waters....of course attracting many tourists! One has to take care with these fast ferries in Greece...they approach so rapidly..
Three huge boatyards in Preveza......a sea of masts, must be at least 1000 boats on the hard! This photo just shows a small section! After several days anchored just off Corfu town under the imposing old fortress, we decided we had had enough of the big city life, and popped over to the sleepy mainland village of Platarias.
Nevertheless, we thoroughly enjoyed revisiting Corfu town...playing tourist as one does...walking miles, stocking up at Lidl, buying favourite sweet bikkies from M&S, plus socializing with our Danish/Swedish friends, Grete and Fred S/Y SANS PEUR, who are 'en route' to Sicily for winter. Finally, our weather has settled down and gone are the sudden frightening electrical storms which we have been experiencing recently....for how long? Ca suffit! CORFU is a beautiful luxuriant green island...from high mountains in the north to fertile coastal plains in the south, surrounded by the sparkling sapphire blue Ionian Sea. Such a contrast, to the bare mountains of Albania just across a one mile wide channel at the northern end of Corfu. The coastline is covered with rich pine, cypress trees dotted everywhere, eucalyptus growing down on the water's edge. Oleander and other brightly coloured bushes are still flowering profusely end September. The history of Corfu is long and complex, as the rest of Greece....impossible to write about that now....But, to mention few details... Venetians ruled for over 400 years, before the French took over in 1797, constructing the arcaded buildings on the esplanade (a second Rue de Rivoli from Paris). Britain had it's turn from 1814, introducing fruit cake and cricket (apparently), Then finally in 1864, Corfu ceded to Greece. All these influences are reflected in the impressive architecture, not forgetting the Byzantine period with their churches etc. Naturally the beauty of this island attracts tourists from all over.... one just has to explore the cobbled streets and other off beat areas, trying to keep well away from the tourist alleys. It is one of these places which grows on you the more often one visits.......we will return happily. BON ANNIVERSAIRE, dear MANON in Paris....thinking of you! . Extremely stormy unsettled wet weather, but we are completely happy here in Ormos Galiates (Ormos Vroulias), NE Corfu, hopingly for a couple more days before the winds turn north again. Huge BRAVO! LEFKAS....
An incredible amount of work has been carried out, in and around the Lefkas Canal since our last passage...nearly 4 years ago....wider, deeper, with also the northern entrance sand bar reduced in size, creating a larger passage. However, I did see 2.5 metres once. There is also a new 'quay' being constructed also, not yet completed. The swinging bridge appears to be brand new, plus many new visible big red and green beacons, from the marina to the bridge. All for the better! Yet again, amazing storms....therefore after Paxos, we spent a couple of perfect calm nights around Sivota (Mourtos) on the mainland, before we sailed up to the NE corner of Corfu to hide from predicted southerlies....just perfect, a beautiful bay, as you can see from photos on slideshow. The vicious clouds are flying across rapidly, so there must be wind somewhere...here it is dead calm....for the time being!! LIGIA is a small fishing harbor near the southern end of the Lefkas Canal...with of course many tavernas specializing in fresh local fish.
We are happily anchored off.....well dug in, as last evening, just 30 minutes after we had rowed ashore for some exercise and a glass of wine, a decent squall came through with, yet again, heavy rain. Thankfully, it passed over rapidly as not to disturb our peaceful night. The poor taverna above, which already had many clients enjoying the local ambiance, had to move all the tables inside quick smart....I certainly felt sorry for them all. Absolutely astonishing, the number of yachts heading either north or south....impressive and entertaining! Tomorrow, we will motor up thru the narrow, shallow canal, past the Lefkas marina, (where we will winter as from 1st November) past the town, then out into the blue northern Ionian. As the wind conditions are very light, we will possibly find a small bay off Paxos for the night....but we do realise that it will be busy in that area.! 14th September is my brother John's birthday...BON ANNIVERSAIRE! 18 months younger than his sister... Just look at those green trees....admittedly the first thing one notices on returning to this magnificent cruising zone of the Ionian islands. However, one also, cannot help but notice, the hundreds of yachts (private, charter, flottillas) sailing around the islands...hit us like a shock! Before arriving here to Vliho Bay, we anchored for the very first time behind the barren island of Petalas off the mainland, just south of Nisis Kalamos and Nisis Kastos.....we were certainly not disappointed. Although hugely remote, we were several 'liveaboard' yachts, incredibly protected from the prevailing winds....tres sauvage, shallow anchoring in mud and best of all absolutely SILENT....not a sound!! All through this area, there are quite a few fish farms, which obviously deter the charter boats....(I could even connect to internet!!) Continuing north, via Meganisi.... strong southerlies with strong thunderstorms had been predicted.......Our plan A was to find a 'hidey hole' in Meganisi, BUT after exploring the indented bays, changed to plan B, direction Vliho Bay, near Nidhri. As there were so many boats at anchor, also tied to the rocks and trees, we did not feel comfortable anchoring in the depths, especially if 40+knts gusts pass thru the area! To arrive in Vliho Bay, one passes by the picturesque Nisis Skorpios, which is private, once in the Onassis family, now has a Russian owner. The impressive Baroque mansion on Nisis Madhouri is next, see photo above....then one arrives at Nidhri. Of course, the season here is still in full swing with hordes of tourists from all over...plus I cannot imagine the number of boats, all shapes and sizes! Bruno and I found our niche at the head of Vliho Bay ...60 metres of chain in 6.5 metres....ready for anything!! We know the holding here is excellent in sticky mud....tested many times in the past years! It has rained and rained, incredibly WILD thunderstorms, lightning striking like huge New Year's Eve fireworks displays....THE WORKS, plus gusts of up to 45 knts at 4.30 this morning. Obviously boats were dragging, so there was a lot of activity for a couple of hours, poor things with the torrential rain etc. No doubt we will be here for a couple more days, as it is still raining solidly ......'Pacific Pearl' is now a very clean yacht!! But enough is enough!! Cloudy, maybe we will have a thunderstorm?? Such a lot of activity late yesterday afternoon and this morning....3 Canadair planes have been circling VERY LOW over our masts, then scooping up water in order to extinguish a bush fire up behind the hills, which we cannot see, just the smoke. These guys must be 'top gun' pilots, what an amazing job they are doing! We awoke this morning to find ash all over the decks and of course inside, as all hatches were open! Therefore lots of cleaning to start the day. Kolpos Lagana is a Marina National Park with restrictions concerning navigation and mooring in the bay....which is the most important nesting area for the Loggerhead sea turtle (Caretta caretta) in the Mediterranean. I do feel though for these wonderful turtles as the speed limit is certainly not controlled, unfortunately. Also, now is the breeding season, but there are many many tourists visiting the sandy beaches, which must pertube the poor turtles. We have seen a couple around our boat, even though we are out of the restricted zone. As I write, yes, a thunderstorm is about to hit us!! Hopingly with heavy rain to wash down 'Pacific Pearl', needed after our sail the other day. We are the yacht to the left....
Two lonely isolated islands approx. 32 miles west of Kiparissia on the mainland and 26 miles due south of Zakinthos. ...our first visit.
From Rod Heikell's guide "The islands once supported a prosperous monastery, (photo above)but today there is just one monk who looks after sheep, poultry , a vineyard and a vegetable garden. Apparently there is the question as to whether he is still there, or not?" These strange islands are part of the Zakinthos National Park with the waters the clearest we have, I think, ever seen! One could visualise easily the rocky bottom in 20 metres.... Surprisingly we were 4 yachts at anchor in Ormos Tavernas, southern side of the smaller island, plus a couple of fishing boats who have their own moorings. Of course, NO INTERNET ! Hesitating a while before we dropped our faithful bugle anchor, as we could see the big boulders underneath, but thankfully we found a decent area of sand in which to safely set our anchor. The chain still had to pass over these menacing looking rocks. Immediately we swam over to check, all looked good in 6 metres, enabling us not to worry during the night, which ended up being relatively calm, although slightly rolly to start with. We do not regret spending the night there, as it would be impossible in strong winds and we will never have the chance again, I imagine! Part of our sail the next day towards Ormos Keri, Zakinthos was very sportive with 20 knts + in the nose, but we managed a direct with the winds turning slightly in our favour. 'Pacific Pearl' sailed beautifully into the wind with reduced sails, but we sure had a decent rincing all over! Finally, arriving under the spectacular cliffs of Zakinthos, where the wind died out completely...... |
Archives
June 2019
|